As with so many beauty rituals, exfoliation goes back to ancient times. The Ancient Egyptians would rid their bodies of dead skin by dry brushing and the Romans used a tool called a strigilto to scrape off excess oil and dirt.
It seems we've always loved a good scrub. Over the years and across the world both gentle and tough means of opening up and deep cleaning those pores have been explored and applied. So it’s little wonder that there are an abundance of skin exfoliation tools and products on the shelves today.
Despite the word exfoliation being used frequently in skincare and beauty speak, I suspect that many of us don’t truly understand what exfoliation actually is - What is the purpose? Do we need to be doing it? How often? And how? Not to mention all the confusion created because there are so many different names for what appear to be very similar products. I mean, I’m in the industry and I’m not sure if body polish is just another term for body scrub or if it’s something else entirely.
So, I thought I’d address some of the frequently asked questions about exfoliation.
Let’s demystify this basic beauty routine and see if I can help you understand the part exfoliation can play in taking care of your skin.
Is Exfoliation Good?
Basically, yes! I know I’m usually telling you all how many of our beauty products are unnecessary - and they are - but exfoliation has its place. You see, exfoliation isn’t just about helping your skin achieve that silky smooth texture, it’s about hygiene.
Whilst water and oil are wonderful for washing our skin and keeping ourselves clean, it doesn’t get far beyond the surface. Exfoliation, however, will open up the pores allowing you to rid the skin of embedded dirt and debris.
Furthermore, the friction created by exfoliating products brushes off dead skin cells that can cling to the skin blocking pores and making it harder for new skin cells to form.
So, yes - I’m an exfoliation advocate. Only, there are some other things to consider so don’t stop scrolling yet…
What Is Bad About Exfoliation?
Essentially, there is nothing bad about exfoliation but it has become a problem due to a lack of understanding about what constitutes exfoliation, how often it should be done and why we do it.
Whilst helping the skin to shed dead cells and giving it a more thorough clean is beneficial, approaching exfoliation as a way of sandpapering the skin down, the way you might do wooden furniture, is a big mistake.
The truth about exfoliation is that the process is rough on the skin and can cause microtears and when the skin is broken it's vulnerable to infection. Also, the outer layer of our skin is supposed to be tougher. That’s why it can stand the toxins and weather conditions it’s exposed to. It’s why it’s waterproof. If we wear away at this too much then we are damaging our protective surface layer to our detriment.
Another misconception about exfoliation is what it actually is. Exfoliation happens when anything is rubbed against the skin, even softly, that is of rougher texture than the skin. This could be a scrub or polish but it would also include a flannel. If you rub your face with a flannel then you are engaging in light exfoliation. This is why I recommend using your fingers to wash or apply products, most of the time. Thereby ensuring you are not exfoliating too much.
How Often Should I Exfoliate?
As mentioned, there are different levels of exfoliation. I would recommend giving your face a more robust wash using a soft flannel or cloth once a day. However, you should not be using a facial scrub or other physical exfoliant more than twice a week. Especially if you have sensitive skin.
Can Exfoliation Irritate The Skin?
Exfoliation can damage the skin and cause microtears if it's done too often or with too much pressure. Those with sensitive skin, bumpy skin, clogged pores or rosacea may be tempted to exfoliate more often, partly because it can make our skin feel cleaner and also because it feels more necessary to remove dead skin cells. However, this is a mistake.
Sensitive skin does not need rough treatment it needs to build resilience on its own with minimal intervention. In fact, the more we rub our skin and the more products we expose it to, the more likely we are to exacerbate the problem.
Sometimes it’s useful to think of your skin as a toddler having a meltdown. Although our instinct may be to jump in with a range of techniques and approaches, the best course of action is usually to do very little - let them work through it themselves and learn to self-soothe. It’s always better in the long term and this is the best approach for ‘problem’ skin too.
If you suffer from sensitive or 'problem' skin then ensure you use all-natural exfoliants with no harsh chemicals. Apply with care and don’t exfoliate more than once a week. Keep an eye on how your skin responds over time and increase to twice per week only if your skin is showing no signs of flare-ups.
How Do I Exfoliate?
If you’re using a physical exfoliant this will likely be a polish or scrub that is of a grainy texture. This is what causes the friction that causes your pores to open and dead skin cells to break away. Since you are already using a product with a rougher texture than your skin you should only apply it with your fingertips. Use your fingers to massage the product across your face tracing light circles. Do this few just a couple of minutes before washing the scrub off. Make sure you don’t leave any product on your face and use an all-natural moisturising cream to lock in that moisture when you're done. This is best applied when your face is damp to help your skin absorb the cream properly.
When washing with a flannel this is a lighter form of exfoliation - or rather it should be. Go easy with that cloth - you’re not cleaning windows or polishing silver. It’s skin and it’s delicate and needs to be treated with tenderness. Pressing tepid water against your skin with a cloth and then rubbing lightly in small circles is more than enough to help the water seep in and promote some blood flow to the face.
What Should I Use To Exfoliate?
If you’re using a physical exfoliant this will likely be a polish or scrub that is of a grainy texture. This is what causes the friction that causes your pores to open and dead skin cells to break away. Since you are already using a product with a rougher texture than your skin you should only apply it with your fingertips. Use your fingers to massage the product across your face tracing light circles. Do this few just a couple of minutes before washing the scrub off. Make sure you don’t leave any product on your face and use an all-natural moisturising cream to lock in that moisture when you're done. This is best applied when your face is damp to help your skin absorb the cream properly.
When washing with a flannel this is a lighter form of exfoliation - or rather it should be. Go easy with that cloth - you’re not cleaning windows or polishing silver. It’s skin and it’s delicate and needs to be treated with tenderness. Pressing tepid water against your skin with a cloth and then rubbing lightly in small circles is more than enough to help the water seep in and promote some blood flow to the face.
What Types Of Exfoliate Are Best?
There are two types of exfoliants and there is also dry body brushing, but that’s a subject to tackle on another day. Generally, we have physical exfoliants and chemical exfoliants.
Physical exfoliants contain granules, beads or particles that scrub the skin. As mentioned, these can be too aggressive and cause microtears but they also have benefits. So, heed my advice above and apply softly and not too often to reap the benefits and avoid the problems over-zealous application can cause.
Chemical exfoliants contain acids and other potent chemicals that dissolve dead skin cells. Some skincare professionals and dermatologists claim that these are a better option because they do not tear the skin. However - can you sense my eyebrow-raising - these are acidic chemicals. As far as I am concerned, they are too harsh and have no place on your skin. Aside from the fact that they get washed into our oceans via our bathroom sinks, non-professionals should not be using products this high in chemicals unless prescribed (in my opinion). Our skin is too important to experiment with and although some types of acid-based products may aid certain skin types, I believe this to be an extreme skin solution that’s wrongly been promoted as a mainstream beauty product.
Because I believe in keeping things simple with skincare, especially when it comes to exfoliation, I make just one exfoliating product - The Clean Slate. This is an all-natural, vegan coffee and clay face mask and scrub. Designed to buff away dead skin cells and keep skin radiant, this two-in-one treat smells gorgeous and the texture is just perfect - giving your skin a good deep clean without risking microtears and damage. Check it out - your skin deserves this ethically made earth-inspired exfoliant.
Do I sense a hand raised at the back? If there are any questions you have about exfoliation I have not answered then please let me know. Contact me on LinkedIn, Instagram or through the website.
